Until recently, I associated the word “ramen” with Styrofoam cups filled with dry, noodle-like foodstuffs of dubious chemical composition. Even with the advent of such eateries as Momofuku and Ramen Setagaya, I couldn’t shake my perception of ramen as a snack best enjoyed while writing a last-minute term paper at 3 a.m.
Enter Ippudo New York, the first stateside branch of a 34-restaurant franchise in Japan. Ippudo was founded in 1985 by chef Shigemi Kawahara, dubbed the “Ramen King” after winning a Japanese ramen-making game show 3 times in a row. If I wanted to change my impression of ramen, I thought I might as well start with the man they call King.
Before my dinner, I consulted New York Eats, a blog run by former New York Times food columnist Ed Levine. The blog is devoted to finding the best versions of New Yorkers’ favorite foods, like bagels, hot dogs, and, yes, ramen noodles.
Of Ippudo’s ramen, Mr. Levine wrote it was “perhaps the greatest bowl of noodles in broth I have ever had.” Them’s some strong words. Naturally, I entered Ippudo with high expectations. Apparently so did a lot of other people, as the restaurant was packed, even though it was a rainy Monday night.
The first thing I noticed about the restaurant was its eye-popping décor. The bar features a display of at least 30 different noodle bowls, each one representing a different Japanese ramen shop. The bar counter has glass panels, under which are nestled rows of dry noodles. Rich wood panels with black and red accents provide the backdrop for the main dining room.
As soon as I finished admiring the room’s furnishings, however, I couldn’t help but be annoyed by the music. Playing so loud that I had to shout to my companions, the evening’s soundtrack was a single loop of about eight or nine Oasis songs. I ordered a hot sake ($9/glass), hoping to dull my senses a little bit.
The sake, and food that followed, proved to be ample distraction from the music. T
he dashimaki ($8), an egg omelet cut up into sashimi-size pieces, had a fluffy lightness to it. It was paired with radish grated so finely it almost resembled a paste, which lent a smoky flavor to the eggs. Not to mention the word “IPPUDO” seared onto the top of the omelet. That’s what New York needs, more restaurants that brand their food.
Then came the ramen. First, the Shiromaru NY ($13), Ippudo’s original version of the tonkotsu style of soup, which contains roast pork, cabbage and scallions, within a broth made of pork bones boiled for 15 hours. This was the version Mr. Levine had gone into raptures over.
I could almost hear a drum roll as I took my first bite, Mr. Levine’s words echoing in my mind. My verdict? I second Mr. Levine’s judgment of the broth as “a revelation.” It was thick and deeply infused with the taste of pork, without overwhelming the other flavors. The noodles were, as Mr. Levine wrote, “firm but not quite chewy, perfectly al dente.” They certainly taste fresh, not surprising since they are made daily in Ippudo’s kitchen.
The Akamaru Modern ($13), a variation on the classic Shiromaru version, 
is served with garlic oil and hidenotare, a bright red miso paste. It has a slightly lighter broth, but is still full of the same rich, porky flavors. The broth was warm and delicious until the last drop, which I (unashamedly) had to lift and tilt my oversize bowl back to reach.
One of the unique aspects of Ippudo, among its ramen rivals in New York and Japan, is its emphasis on the noodles as the center of a fine dining experience. Besides the décor and beautiful presentation of dishes, this is accomplished through the exceedingly friendly staff. Each time I was served, my thank you was met with a resounding, “You’re welcome!” which, though it surprised me at first, I appreciated.
No longer will ramen be a cup of noodles that sits next to my computer while I write papers. I believe, as Mr. Levine put it, that “Shigemi Kawahara really is the King of Ramen, and I am now his humble and loyal subject.”
All hail the King.
Ippudo NY
65 Fourth Ave. (between 9th and 10th Sts.)
(212) 388-0088
You can leave a response, or trackback from your own site.
RSS 2.0
